Project Story: Fox Meadows

Industrial Flooring Solutions

Recently, we had the privilege of providing Fox Meadows Creamery, a fantastic place for ice cream, with a much-needed flooring solution for their new location. Informed by their poor experience with epoxy-coated floors at the first store, Fox chose another direction for their Leola, PA location. This time, they decided to install Altro Floors, a hard-wearing, hygienic product ideal for commercial kitchens, and employed our team of technicians for the project.

The Fox team needed a floor that combined a number of qualities. It needed to be easy to clean, have long-lasting, heavy duty slip resistance (ice cream contains a heavy concentration of fat particles that tend to build up on surfaces making them slippery), fatigue reduction, and be rigorous enough to withstand the heavy traffic demands for their ice cream production space.

Their Choice

The Cream Team executed a three-part plan with Altro’s products: Atlas 40 (pewter) and Stronghold 30 (tundra) for the floor and Puraguard in the color salt for the walls. With their new durable, non-slip floor, the creamery is looking forward to serving heaps of their delicious ice cream to hungry, Leola patrons! May the meadows of Lancaster be dripping with the sweet cream of the Fox!


SPC

SPC

solid polymer core vinyl flooring with a wood look

Wood-look SPC installed by D&S Flooring in 2022

Vinyl flooring is the most popular and fastest-growing hard surface flooring in the United States, and the biggest contributor to that growth is the innovative, “rigid core” sub-segment. Thanks to this latest introduction, vinyl is not only budget-friendly, waterproof, soft underfoot, and easy to maintain, it’s even more durable, dimensionally stable, and dent resistant. 

SPC Vinyl

As we explain in our All About Vinyl article, rigid core or stone polymer composite or solid polymer core (SPC) is a luxury vinyl plank (LVP) or tile (LVT) with an engineered core. Like LVP, SPC has several layers: a finish layer, wear layer, print layer, and backing. In addition to these layers, it has a dense, engineered core typically comprised of 60% calcium carbonate (powdered limestone), polyvinyl chloride, and stabilizers. This dense core adds dimensional stability to the product, which means it reduces expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity. As a thicker LVP product, SPC also absorbs and blocks more sound and is more dent-resistant.

Many SPC products also come with a click-together system for easy installation. It’s better at hiding subfloor imperfections (no telegraphing) than standard LVT and comes with all the attractive features of LVP: beveled edges, textured wear layers, and high-definition print designs for added realism whether you want a wood look or a tile look. As for price point, SPC costs between $3.50 and $7 per square foot.

With these practical improvements, visual appeal, and competitive price point, it’s no wonder rigid core/SPC flooring has been flying off the shelves. Here are the recent stats per Floor Covering news:

“...the rigid core subsegment of the resilient category is driving the overall growth [of resilient vinyl flooring sales]. FCNews research shows that rigid core/SPC garnered 45.6% of total resilient sales in 2021 and 34.8% of volume. That translates to $3.845 billion in sales and 2.047 billion square feet. Compare that to 2020 when rigid core/SPC checked in at $2.617 billion and 1.63 billion square feet. To put this in perspective, total LVT sales just six years ago were $1.45 billion. So, rigid core alone is nearly triple the entire LVT market in 2015.” 

The Difference Between WPC and SPC

The second type of rigid core flooring is called wood plastic (polymer) composite (WPC). WPC is made with the same idea as SPC, only its engineered core is softer, thicker (taller), and less dense. The core is made up of wood pulp, plasticizers, and foaming agents. WPC resilient vinyl is still more resistant to indentation than traditional LVP or sheet vinyl while maintaining the soft feel customers have come to love about vinyl.

Our Offerings

The next time you’re in your local flooring retailer or here at D&S, be sure to give rigid core flooring, and specifically SPC flooring a good look! Here at our showroom, we carry and display the following SPC options from these companies: 

  • Armstrong

  • Novafloor

  • Azul Tortuga

  • Chesapeake

  • Coretec Pro

  • Mannington

  • Karndean

  • Shaw Floors

  • Mohawk

We welcome walk-ins during our normal business hours Monday through Friday 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Thursday until 8:00 p.m. and Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. If you’d like to guarantee an available sales team member, then we’d recommend setting up an appointment ahead of time. You can do so by filling out the form below to connect with Josh or give us a call at (717) 553-2900.

Contact JOsh for An Appointment

Choosing Your Next Carpet

When it comes to selecting the best carpet for your needs, where do you start? If you’re like most people, walking into a fully stocked showroom can be overwhelming.

It’s like this… You’ve just entered the flooring showroom and upon traversing the foyer, your eyes are met with a sea of carpet displays. You’ve never seen so much tufted fiber in all your life …and it all looks the same. Broadloom, carpet tiles, wool, nylon, plush, Berber, waterproof backing, padding… Information overload! How do you begin to cut through the jargon and marketing to decipher what’s most important and avoid overspending? How do you get the quality product that fits your needs and meets your budget? In this article, we hope to give you the information you need to make the best selection when choosing your next carpet!

Let’s get started.

Five Categories to Consider

We recommend starting with these five categories when making a new carpet purchase. Consider…

  1. Budget

  2. Type of Fiber

  3. Durability (which includes choosing carpet pad!)

  4. Style

  5. Color

First Category: Budget

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When entering the carpet buying decision, it’s helpful to have a good idea of your budget. What’s your range? Knowing your spending range can help you eliminate options outside of it. Because there are so many options of carpet in today’s market, prices vary from less than $2 per square foot to over $15 per square foot, which is a $500 to $3,750 swing for a 250 square foot room! Knowing your budget range can narrow your options which will aid you in making your final selection.

Determining Your Needs

Once you know a range of how much you want to spend, consider what you need your carpet to do. What’s your specific situation? What strengths are you looking for in your carpet? Knowing what you need will help ensure you spend money only on the essential qualities that you need in your carpet. Durability, stain resistance, style, look, etc… These are some of the elements that can factor into the cost (and quality) of a carpet. You want to make sure you’re getting what your situation demands and avoid spending money on the aspects of carpet you don’t need.

Here are some examples of situations and our recommendations:

If you’re a landlord renting out your property, for example, we would advise you to spend your money on a durable carpet with good stain and soil resistance. You can save money by choosing a straightforward style like a level-loop or a high-density, high-twist, cut-pile carpet. (The term pile refers to the carpet’s surface or “face” and twist refers to the amount of twist in each strand of carpet.) Having a dense carpet with high twist adds to the durability! Avoid unnecessary expense from styles like shag, intricately patterned, or cut-and-loop options. Longer strands will cost you more because it’s more material while cut-and-loop carpets cost more because of the extra time and effort in the manufacturing process. Also, a tip for landlords is to educate your tenants on carpet care, which will save you money on carpet replacement in the long run.

If you’re planning on selling your home, look for an option with a lower price tag but still has a full and appealing look. Wool, nylon, and triexta are the best carpet fibers for longevity, stain-resistance, and comfort, but they’re also the most expensive, and you’re not even going to get to enjoy them! That’s why polyester is probably your best choice; It’s less expensive, provides good value for your money, and looks nice. Olefin (or polypropylene) is another inexpensive option, but it’s more commonly used in commercial applications.

If you’re a homeowner with kids, a triexta or polyester carpet will provide inherent stain resistance while a nylon or wool will keep looking good longer. Polyester will crush sooner than nylon, showing wear in a few years in high-traffic areas. So polyester can definitely be a win for kids’ rooms while nylon would be a good choice for hallways, stairs, and the main living room. Also, we recommend getting a multi-colored (marbled) option that will hide dirt and stains better than a solid colored carpet. Avoid a white carpet! The darker/marble-colored carpets will save you money from having to replace a worn-looking carpet.

If you’re a homeowner with pets, avoid getting a loop-pile carpet as your pet’s nails can snag the loops. While loop-pile carpets are acclaimed for durability, they’re no match for those claws! Stain resistance will be an important quality to spend money on as well, so a polyester carpet would be a good option. Where durability is key, we recommend a quality nylon carpet.

If you’re a homeowner without kids or pets (and you’re planning to live in your house for 10+ years), we would recommend spending the money for a quality carpet that will last. Wool, nylon, or triexta are good options. If you want to save money, polyester can be a good option for low-traffic areas. If you’re not often entertaining and spills aren’t a constant concern, you can go with a lighter color to make your rooms feel bigger!

Some More Heads Up Related to Budget

As you’re considering your budget, remember to think in terms of total project spend. You’re buying carpet, carpet pad, and likely the labor to install it as well. This includes a lot more than that dollar per square foot price you’re looking at on the display. We advise you to come to the store with a rough estimate of room sizes and layout. This will help us give you a ballpark idea of total project cost while you’re perusing.

Our process at D&S: When you're ready to buy, a sales team member from D&S will come out to you, take a free on-site measurement, and send you an estimate within seven business days.

This estimate will include padding, installation, seaming, stairs (if applicable), thresholds, the moving of furniture, and the removal of old carpet or other flooring and materials. You can save money by doing the demolition and carpet removal yourself!

Keep in mind, there may be extra carpet that you’re paying for. At D&S, we never add more carpet than is needed, but there can be excess carpet in certain situations. If a room is over 12 feet wide and 12 feet long, as in a room that’s 15’ x 18’ for example, there’s going to be a good chunk of carpet cut and not used. This is because of two reasons: One, broadloom comes in 12’ wide rolls, so a seam will be needed. Two, the seams needs to be made with a carpet that’s running in the same direction. (It has to do with how the carpet is constructed in the backing.) If two sections of carpet of the same colored carpet are installed in different directions, they will look like two different colors! When there is a pattern in the carpet, there can be even more excess carpet because of cuts needed to make the carpet’s pattern match up as well as to reduce the amount of seams needed. Similarly with padding, which comes in 6-foot-wide rolls, you’re likely to spend some money on excess padding depending on room size and layout.

Tip: Get multiple bids from installers when shopping, but remember to compare apples to apples. Also, once the carpet arrives, double check the tag that it’s the carpet you paid for. It could be an honest mistake or the company you’re getting carpet from is actually scamming you!

Now that you’ve got an idea of your budget, the aspects of carpet you want to spend your money on, and room sizes and other factors considered, let’s take a closer look at a few more categories of the carpet buying decision.

Second Category: Type of Carpet Fiber

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The next thing you’ll need to decide is the type of fiber that makes up your carpet. There are a number of different fiber options on the market, and they fall into two main categories: natural and man-made fibers. Natural fibers include wool (which you can see so beautifully pictured above), sisal, cotton, seagrass, jute, silk, and coir. Synthetic fibers include nylon, Triexta (PTT), polyester (PET), olefin (polypropylene), and acrylic.

Each fiber has its strengths and weaknesses, and, to be clear, there’s not one super fiber. You should get to know the pros and cons of each fiber and how it performs to determine which best fits your needs.

NATURAL FIBERS

In the natural fiber category, the most commonly used fiber is wool. Its elasticity enables it to be used in broadloom (wall-to-wall) carpet in both loop-pile and cut-pile styles. Wool is completely natural, super-soft, flame-resistant, and great at hiding dirt. When compared to other common fibers on today’s market like nylon and polyester, wool comes out on top as the most sustainable and environmentally friendly. Sheep just keep growing their wool back, and that wool is 100% biodegradable! It’s also a durable fiber. Unlike synthetic fibers that are either good at resisting oil stains or water-based stains, wool is good at resisting both, and It does this naturally without added chemicals. We will note it does have some susceptibility to mildew because it absorbs water and maintaining it is different than synthetic fibers. You and the carpet cleaner will need to be informed of the specialized cleaning process. Also, wool is the most expensive of the fibers that make today’s carpets. While some entry-level wool carpets can be as inexpensive at $3 per square foot, mid to high-end wool carpets can cost up to $15 or more per square foot.

Sisal, cotton, seagrass, jute, silk, and coir are other natural fibers used mostly in the production of area rugs and woven carpets. Jute is the most popular of this group for its softness and price point. Jute is the most inexpensive natural fiber for carpet, but because it’s so soft, it’s not the most durable.

In our carpet showroom, customers can see and feel some real wool carpets at our Godfrey Hirst display. This line of wool carpet is made from the coats of the generous sheep of New Zealand. 🐑

👆🏼Godfrey Hirst Carpet Samples!

MAN-MADE FIBERS

In the man-made fiber category, nylon is still the most popular fiber on the market today. Invented in 1935 by DuPont and first introduced to the carpet industry in 1948, nylon has gained the reputation as the most durable of synthetic carpet fibers. Nylon accounts for over 65% of the carpet produced in the U.S. There are two types of nylon: 6,6 and 6. The strongest, softest type, and most expensive is type 6,6 nylon. Nylon is versatile, abrasion-resistant, and resilient. (It’s more abrasion resistant than wool in fact.) It resists wearing over time and its flexibility allows it to be used in a variety of different carpet patterns and styles from ultra-plush to dense and tightly packed. Nylon is not inherently stain-resistant, but when treated with protective solutions, as with branded nylon from Shaw Floors or Mohawk, for example, it does a good job at resisting stains and soiling. We should also mention that nylon carpets can be recycled, lessening their negative impact on the environment! (In fact, nylon has less of a negative impact on the environment than PET carpets, since PET carpets can’t be recycled once they’ve been used.) Prices for nylon carpets average between $3 and $8 per square foot.

Triexta (PTT) is the ‘new kid on the block’ in the synthetic fiber category. It’s only been around for ten years, but there’s quite a buzz about it. Triexta, also known as polytrimethylene terephthalate 🤓 or PTT for short, is another product of DuPont. Where you’ll find Triexta in our showroom is in Mohawk’s SmartStrand Forever Clean line of carpets. Triexta is like polyester, inherently stain and fade resistant, but it’s more resilient, bouncing back to its original shape when crushed. Time will tell how it stacks up against nylon in resiliency and wear, but as far as stain resistance, like polyester, Triexta is already ahead. PTT fibers are hydrophobic (repelling water) and are solution-dyed, which is a process of introducing the color in the liquid chemical stage before the yarn is produced, resulting in fibers that have color locked in throughout each strand. Even bleach won’t take the color out! Any water-based stains can be easily cleaned by water extraction. It is susceptible to oil, however, and will need treatment to resist it and special cleaning to address oily stains. Prices for Triexta carpets average between $2 and $5 per square foot.

Polyester (PET) is a soft fiber that is extremely stain-resistant. It’s less expensive than both nylon and Triexta carpets, and solution-dyed polyester carpets won’t fade in the sun. Because polyester is hydrophobic, it inherently repels water and thus water-based stains. Shaw Floors’ high-performance polyester “Bellera” carpets are a great example of the strengths of PET carpets. They come with a 10-year warranty against stains caused by pets, grease, mustard, coffee, lipstick, cola, and even bleach. They also promise resistance against soiling by common household soil. While Bellera is an example of a quality PET carpet, polyester is not inherently resistant to oil-based stains. It’s also not as resilient as nylon or Triexta, however. So, if you’re looking to install it in a high-traffic area, consider going with nylon over polyester or be ready for it to look warn in a few short years. An environmental plus about PET is that they’re made from recycled plastic bottles and other recycled materials. As we’ve already mentioned, once PET carpets are used, they can’t be recycled again unfortunately. Prices for polyester carpets average between $2 and $6 per square foot.

Olefin, also known as polypropylene, is an excellent choice where budget, mildew, colorfastness, or staining are top concerns. Olefin is the least expensive and most colorfast of synthetic carpets. It’s the most colorfast across the board because solution-dying is the only way this fiber will receive color. It’s also stain resistant because the dye sites are filled with color. Olefin is most widely used in commercial applications and for outdoor carpets. It’s not a very resilient fiber, so it’s often produced in a loop-pile style to hold up against matting and crushing. It’s also susceptible to oil and grease stains. We recommend installing it in low-traffic areas, basements, or outdoors. Prices for Olefin carpets average between $1 and $5 per square foot.

Third Category: Durability

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There are a number of factors that contribute to a carpet’s durability, not just the type of fiber as we’ve mentioned already. A carpet made of high-quality polyester could outperform a low-quality nylon carpet. In addition to fiber type, a carpet’s durability is determined by face weight, density, twist level, padding, and style. Let’s unpack each of these factors.

Face weight is the weight (in ounces) per square yard of carpet. Generally, the higher the face weight, the more durable the carpet. However, this does not take into account the height of each of the carpet fibers. For example, let’s say you’re looking at two carpets with a face weight of 50 ounces each. One of them is a frieze style (long, twisted strands) and the other is a very short, cut-pile style. The Frieze is going to have a much lower density while the shorter carpet’s density will be higher, making it more durable.

Carpet density refers to how close together the fibers are tufted (stitched) into the carpet backing. A carpet whose fibers are really close together will have a high density rating and thus a greater durability. In fact, density is the best specification by which to determine durability, but there are still other important factors to consider.

Twist level is the number of twists per inch in each of the carpet strands. Much like carpet density, the higher the twist level, the more durable the carpet. Each twist strengthens the carpet’s ability to resist wear and being matted down or crushed. When you buy a carpet, you can try to find its twist number on the label (sometimes referred to as turns-per-inch (TPI). If not, you can do the math on it yourself using this formula:

Twist level = [# of twists] / [inches of carpet]

If the carpet you’re looking at is shorter than an inch, measure half an inch and double your number. Carpets with lower twist levels are more susceptible to unraveling. A good twist level is 7 or higher.

Padding or cushion is another factor of durability. Even though the padding is separate from the carpet, the two work together. It’s like the relationship between a bridge and an asphalt road. Without the support of the bridge, the asphalt would fall apart under the weight of the cars driving over it. The same is true with carpet. Cushion (or the bridge) can help keep a carpet new-looking by reducing height loss and crushing of the fibers. Also, the right padding can even stop premature breakdown of the backing. Manufacturers know this and often recommend specific types of padding to go with their carpets. Mohawk, for example, will add ten years to their warranty for customers who purchase their brand of padding (called “SmartCushion”).

Continuing on the subject of padding, the two main things you want to look for when buying cushion for your carpet is pad type and pad density. Here are the pad types available:

  • Rebonded padding - 85% of the padding sold in the US today is rebonded, aka bonded urethane/polyurethane. We recommend rebonded padding in most cases for both the price point and durability.

  • Prime foam pad - The worst. It’s not very dense as the foam is full of air pockets

  • Frothed urethane - Second best and second-most durable & second-most expensive. Shaw Floors offers a frothed urethane or pure foam padding called “Courage” to go with their carpets.

  • Memory foam pad

  • Fiber pad - In some cases, like with a loop-pile (Berber) carpet, the carpet manufacturer’s warranty may call for a fiber pad.

  • Waffle rubber pad

  • Flat (slab) rubber pad - the best (i.e. most durable but also most expensive)

Pad density refers to the measure of how compact a carpet cushion is, and it’s measured in pounds per cubic foot. If you were to grab the carpet cushion by your hand and do a squeeze test, the firmer the feel the higher the density. You don’t want to find the softest, squishiest pad! For durability, we recommend purchasing a high-density, compact carpet cushion. For rebonded padding, that’s anything over 6 lbs per cubic foot. 8 lbs. is recommended if you’re wanting your carpet to last 10+ years. We have both 6 lb. and 8 lb. rebonded cushion in stock at D&S! We also have SmartCushion by Mohawk and “Courage” padding, which is a frothed urethane foam pad, by Shaw Floors. For specifications on carpet cushion, see carpetcushion.org for more info.

The final factor of durability has to do with the carpet’s style. Style contributes to durability because of the loop-pile and cut-pile construction. Allow us to explain. Every tufted carpet starts out a loop-pile carpet with the strands inserted into the primary backing and then looped over and then secured by the secondary backing, locking in the strands. The strands are then either left looped or are clipped and set to stand up or twisted. Carpets that are left looped over are referred to as loop-pile carpets. Carpets whose strands are clipped are referred to as cut-pile carpets. Cut-pile and loop-pile carpets differ in how the surface or pile (also called the “face”) of the carpet is either made up of the sidewalls or the tips of the fibers. Because the sidewalls of the fibers are more durable, loop-pile carpets are naturally more durable than cut-pile carpets of similar quality. Cut-pile carpets can still be durable, but the simple fact that the sidewalls of the fibers are more resistant to wear generally makes loop-pile carpets more durable. In the case of pet’s claws, however, cut-pile carpets are more durable because they won’t get snagged and cause runs in your beautiful carpet! Additionally, tighter loops in loop-pile carpets are more durable as they’re more resistant to crushing and matting.

A Visual Summary: The Durability Puzzle

Here’s a visual that helps explains the relationship between all the factors of durability. Note: The larger the puzzle piece, the greater its factors in a carpet’s overall durability.

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Fourth Category: Style

Pictured: Shaw Floor’s sonora timeless taupe

Pictured: Shaw Floor’s sonora timeless taupe

Now that you’ve considered you budget, type of fiber, and factors of durability, let’s look at the carpet style. Carpet style, as we’ve mentioned, refers to the texture of the carpet, how the strands look and are arranged in the backing. Plush, Berber, level-loop, multi-level loop, Saxony… Perhaps you’ve heard these terms. They all refer to how the strands of carpet are either looped or cut and set together in a number of ways. For example, cut strands can be made long and tightly twisted as in the case of a frieze or they can be left looped in alternating short and tall loops as in a sisal-style, loop-pile carpet. Manufacturers today produce loop-pile carpets, cut-pile-carpets, and loop-and-cut-pile carpets with intricate designs (as demonstrated by Shaw Floor’s Sonora carpet, pictured above).

A cut-pile style carpet (also commonly referred to as a plush carpet) with the looped strands clipped has a soft, plushy, and often taller surface while a loop-pile style carpet is typically shorter, more rigid, and denser. Loop piles might not be as soft as plush carpets, but they have a uniform look and hold up really well (with the exception of homes with pets and their claws that snag!) In the loop-pile category are level loop, multi-level loop, sisal, and berber. In the cut-pile category are plush pile (velvet), Saxony, cut-pile twist (or textured Saxony), and frieze.

Loop-Pile Carpets:

Level loop refers to a loop-pile carpet whose loops are all the same height.

Multi-level loop refers to a loop-pile carpet with loops of varying heights.

Sisal refers to a loop-pile carpet with short and tall loops that alternate each row, resulting in a linear pattern.

Berber (which is the term often mixed up by carpet professionals and shoppers alike with the term level-loop) is very similar to standard level-loop carpets but has thicker loops and constructed with tighter circles. Of the level-loop carpets, berber is the most durable. Additionally, the tighter the circles, the more durable the carpet and resistant to matting and crushing it will be.

Cut-Pile Carpets:

Plush pile (aka velvet) refers to a cut-pile carpet with a soft, velour-like appearance and even, upright finish that makes for a formal look. In a plush, the strands are densely packed together, short and slightly twisted. While durable, a drawback of this style is that it can display tracking from footprints and vacuuming.

Saxony refers to a cut-pile carpet whose strands are not as dense but are tall and twisted tightly. Saxonies present a smooth and luxurious-looking finish. A drawback of this style is that it can display tracking from footprints and vacuuming.

Textured Saxony (or cut pile twist) is made up of long, twisted strands designed to lay in different directions. This greatly reduces tracking from footprints and vacuuming.

Frieze refers to a cut-pile carpet with really long fibers. Sometimes called California shags, these tightly-twisted strands make for a laid-back feel. These actually tend to be pretty durable since the carpet fibers are laying down and highly twisted.

Manufacturers also produce cut and loop style carpets which, as the name suggests, are made of strands that have been clipped as well as left looped back into the backing. Styles of cut and loop include the pin-dot style, linear patterns, and varying geometric shapes. These can be very elegant and interesting in their look. A drawback to cut and loops is that they tend to show wear sooner than all cut-pile carpets or all loop-pile carpets. This is because the cut fibers will wear at different rates and this more readily show the affects of traffic.

Fifth Category: Color

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Hopefully at this point in the selection process, you’ve narrowed down your choice of carpet based on budget, fiber type, durability, and style and are ready to pick your color. Now you can make your color selection and lock in your next carpet!

First Step

Our first big tip is to start with avoiding the colors you hate! (Obvious enough, right?) That step should help you eliminate several colors right there. 🙂

Your Next Considerations

The next thing you should do is choose a color based on other factors at play in your space. If you’re choosing a carpet color for your main living room, for example, choose the sofa color first! Sofas don’t typically come in as many color options, so picking this first will be much easier. Similarly, choose the paint color in your room last since paint comes in an endless selection of colors. Some other things to consider when choosing the color are needs of your situation. What strengths do you need your carpet to have? Do you want…

  • …stain hiding? Choose solid, dark color to hide that spilled grape juice 🍷 or cat pee 🐈.

  • …dirt hiding? Chose a multi-colored (tonal) carpet to keep that dirty appearance from oil buildup at bay.

  • …seam hiding? Choose a darker color to hide those seams better.

  • …a bigger, more spacious feel? Choose a lighter color to make your room feel bigger.

  • …a cover, more inviting feel? Choose a lighter color to make your room feel cozier and more inviting.

  • …to not have to vacuum up lint and dust all the time? Choose a lighter color to hide lint and dust.

Go Classic

Interior design trends are ever changing. Because of this, we recommend considering a classic neutral color like beige, ivory, taupe, or gray. These timeless colors don’t go out of style with the latest trends. In fact, the most popular colors sold today are gray and beige (gray currently overtaking beige in popularity more recently). Since a new carpet is a big investment, it’s not practical to make a trendy purchase you’ll regret in 3 years. Additionally, choosing gray and beige opens up a lot of design options as these neutrals go with a variety of other colors. On the flip side, neutral colors can lend themselves to a bland or sterile look, so consider adding color to liven up your space. Using contrast and a color family, you can make your rooms spring to life.

The Psychology of Color

Did you know that color can affect your mood? Warmer colors often make you feel energized and can be more inviting while cooler tones provide a sense of calm. Here’s a quick list of colors and their psychological affects:

  • Black - attractive, elegant, sleek, sophisticated and have a grounding effect (bringing calm) but also can be somber, sad, and evoke anger

  • White - cleanliness, freshness, simplicity, youth, and modernity but can also be cold, bland, and sterile, a good color for kitchens, living rooms, and bathrooms.

  • Silver - innovative, modern and cutting-edge

  • Red - an attention grabber, it speaks of warning, passion, and dominance and can also raise the blood pressure and stimulate the metabolism and thus the appetite which is why restaurants often use the color red

  • Blue - calm, serene, trustworthy, traditional and the least appetizing but can also be icy, distant, sad or cold

  • Green - natural, safe, tranquil, calming and sometimes energizing but is also associated with envy

  • Yellow - warm, bright, energizing, cheerful, attention grabbing and can increase metabolism but can also cause frustration and anger

  • Purple - wealthy, royal, symbolic and regal but also can be mysterious and exotic

  • Brown - natural, strong, dependable, down-to-earth and secure but can also be isolating and lack ambition or drive

  • Orange - enthusiastic, energetic, and happy but can also be attention-grabbing and linked to Halloween and spiritual

  • Pink - romantic, kind, nurturing, calm, joyful and creative but can also be feminine and childish

Final Considerations and Tips

Colors look different and often lighter in your home than in our showroom. At D&S, we encourage our customers to take carpet samples home to see how the colors look in their space. If it’s a little too dark in our showroom, take it home and see if it’s just right. If it’s too light in our showroom, keep perusing the displays till you find a darker shade to take home. Finally, if you’re worried that your color is too boring, remember that you can choose a carpet with interesting textures like a cut and loop in a linear pattern or a frieze carpet to add dimension to your space.

Closing Remarks

We’ve done our best to give five categories to consider when making your next carpet purchase. There are many other factors like choosing your installer, warranties, knowing the best time to buy, and carpet maintenance. Check out our carpet maintenance tips on our blog and ask a sales team member at D&S who would love to help you with your carpet buying decision! Give us a call or send us a message by filling out the form below to get the ball rolling on choosing your next new carpet!

Thanks for reading, and we hope this has been helpful!


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Skim Coating | Floor Preparation

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About Skim Coating

Skim coating in floor preparation is a process in which a compound is applied to the subfloor as an underlayment to reduce variations in the floor and provide for a smooth and adherable surface over which new floor coverings can be installed. Sometimes a floor requires a thick layer (up to a 2 inches) of cement patching compound to eliminate issues and make it ready.

In our case in New Holland, PA where we were installing sheet vinyl over a previous layer of sheet vinyl, all we needed was a thin skim coat layer. We used Ardex Feather Finish to smooth the surface as well as to introduce a drying agent for the adhesive. Feather finish is self-drying. It crystalizes the water enabling it to dry without the need for evaporation. If, for example, you install your new sheet vinyl directly over vinyl without embossing (putting a thin layer of mud over the surface and thus providing a gripping surface), the glue is not likely to dry and may not grip to the finish of the vinyl.


Do you need to update your old floor with some new luxury sheet vinyl? Give us a shout!


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Our installers Chad and Joel Martin made this skim coat as smooth as butter for the new sheet vinyl to be installed. The layer of coat is very thin, measuring 1/16” to 1/32”. It’s just thick enough, however, to eliminate telegraphing of the old floor (where the patterns, lines, and bumps in the subfloor’s surface show through to the new layer of flooring). You wouldn’t want this straight-lay pattern showing through to your new flooring with, say, a brick-set pattern. Besides the problem that would be presenting by glue that didn’t adhere, it would be unsightly!

Good work, gentlemen.


Did you know that much went into installing vinyl flooring in a kitchen?

A Conversation with Josh Plank, Lead Flooring Technician

There’s a lot more to installing new floors than securing them in place. From material selection to properly preparing the subfloor to putting the finishing touches on the project, there are many details to take into consideration to make the final product excellent. It’s these fine details that separate the good from the great. In this video, we’re talking to our lead technician, Josh Plank, to hear of the provisions our installers make to ensure a beautiful and enduring work. With this presentation, we are also aiming to prepare customers for what to expect on a new flooring project and if they would happen to run into a need for repair down the road.

Transcript

Nick: Tell us a little bit about your experience in the flooring industry. You’ve been doing it for like 10 years or something like that?

Josh:  Actually, I have 17 years experience. I started working for my stepdad when I was 17 as a carpet helper. I’ve been at D&S for about a year and a half.

Nick: Having a good time?

Josh: Yeah, I like working here. I specialize in hard surface installations, anything other than carpet and ceramic.  I do do some of those from time to time. It’s not really my specialty but..

Nick: You can do it and get it done.

Josh: You have to be well rounded. Yep!

Nick: That’s excellent! From your perspective what should a customer take into consideration when they’re choosing a new flooring product?

Josh: That’s a good question. I mean, typically I would say skies the limit at this point. Most flooring now is designed for families with pets and kids. And there’s carpet with waterproof backing and pad with waterproof membranes on the top. A lot of the vinyl products that are popular right now. Vinyl planks, tiles.. the floating ones are waterproof. They’re putting more aluminum oxide in the finish of hardwood for scratch resistance. So I would say it’s really about what you like and how much you want to spend. I wouldn’t put carpet in a kitchen/bathroom obviously. As far as other things, I mean, I’ve seen lot of hardwoods going into kitchens now. 

Nick: Is it like a newer trend, the hardwood in kitchens?

Josh: The past 5/7/10 years has been, you know, coming around more. People do a lot more open layouts. They’re running the same thing throughout the whole downstairs her house. Whether it be hardwood or vinyl plank. The printing abilities they have now it looks more realistic now (vinyls) than they did 10-15 years ago. I’ve seen pictures of stuff… I’ve taken pictures of jobs where I was impressed with how it looked, and people were like, “Oh is that wood?”  And I say, “No, it’s actually a vinyl product.”

Nick: So you’ve worked with a lot of different materials. If you’re recommending to a customer in terms of what’s going to last the longest, what would be some of the top few things you would mention?

Josh: There’s two products to get out to me for for longevity and durability. They would be in cork (solid cork) and linoleum. They’re the two most green products, if you will, natural products. If they’re installed properly they can last 40 to 50 years or longer. Now the cost on those is fairly high and you really have to like what you’re putting in obviously if you want a floor to last that long. I would say right under that would be ceramic tile and solid wood, would probably be your next step down. And then you’re looking at your engineered’s, your vinyl products, your sheet vinyls, your vinyl planks/tiles that sort of thing. Then carpet would be at the bottom of the list. I’m not saying that carpet’s going to last you two days or anything like that, but it’s not, I would say, as durable. It’s a softer product than some of the more hard surface things. 

Nick: There really are a lot of options out there for customers. Options out there for customers so let’s talk a little bit about demolition and removal what should customers expect and what typically goes into that part of the process

Josh: Removal and demolition is typically your job most labor-intensive part of the job depending on, obviously, what you’re removing. Ceramic tiles for example, if you are tearing out a bunch of that, I mean, that can take a week depending on the size of the job. Usually, we plastic stuff off as best we can. Carpet… I mean, you can go from that end of the spectrum down to carpet which is usually cutting stuff up and taking out the tack strip and the pad staples. Typically, that’s not quite as long of a process. We do try to keep, you know, dust down/noise down as much as we can. However, we are a construction company. I know a lot of people don’t typically put flooring in that category because it’s more of a decorating type of a thing, but we still are a construction company. 

Nick: So sometimes customers will do the demolition, but we also offer that?

Josh: sometimes people want to tear it out themselves, save some money. That’s fine. But typically I say about 80 to 90% of the projects, we do the tear out/demolition. 

Nick: So taking care of the environment, I know, is important to us. What are some of the things we do to ensure that?

Josh: For example, if we are tearing out hardwood, typically we burn that; as opposed to putting that in a landfill. Cardboard we recycle. The only problem is, construction waist is hard to dispose of to wear it doesn’t go into a landfill. We strive for the best we can do in that area.

Nick: so tell us a little bit about what goes into floor preparation.

Josh: floor preparation would be, especially on the hard surface end, Going to be the foundation that you build upon. A good analogy is a foundation like a house. You could have the nicest looking house in the world put your foundation could not be up to par…

Nick: and that would make all the difference..

Josh: Exactly. So as far as floor prepped, mostly for what I do… Typically you’re looking to get a floor smooth. OK? And as flat as possible. We don’t want to say level because unless you’re pouring self leveler, you’re not going to get a level floor. That can be done at a cost… Basically from my end of it, I am looking at.. concrete: is there a hump that can be ground out? Is there a low spot that can be filled in by pouring on cement patching compound? Holes: they need to be filled as well. Wood substrates: You’re looking at your subfloor joints. They need sanded. Another key thing for what I do typically is under cutting. That could be door jams, brick hearths, stone hearths, brick walls, even ceramic tile walls in bathrooms can be undercut. It gives you a more finished look to a job, almost like it was meant to be there, as opposed to (scribing). We are able to scribe material, but to me, the more you can undercut the better of the job you’re going to get as far as aesthetics go.

Nick: Wow! So a lot goes into floor preparation.

Josh: yeah, I would say typically, 60% of the work that’s done for me would be floor prep.

Nick: if you don’t do floor preparation right, it’s not necessarily going to be hidden by the product that goes on top.

Josh: Correct. Yeah. Typically, floating floors are usually the real key to that one because they are floating, and if you have a lot of variance in your floor, you can feel movement up-and-down. Say for example you’re working in a house that was built in 1870, say. The subfloor in there can be fairly wavy. It’s not going to be like you’re working in a house that was built 10 years ago that you’re trying to redo where everything is a lot more flat. We do the best we can with what we have to work with and communicate that with the customer to handle their expectations as well.

Nick: We make it a point at D&S to be excellent at what we do. What would you say distinguishes us as ‘expert installers”?

Josh: There’s plenty of things in that. Attention to detail is definitely A big one. Professionalism on the job… We are a service business. It’s not just about putting a floor in. I mean, it’s about communicating with the customer, handling their expectations, holding ourselves to a high standard as far as installation goes, installing a floor properly per manufacturers recommendation, (and) making every job look the way a customer in vision is it looking. Technically, you could be the best flooring installer in the world and not be able to communicate with someone and it’s basically pointless. That to me is what really separates the good ones from the great ones. The attention to detail thing is definitely key. Flooring installers have to wear a lot of different hats. We do trim-work. We do concrete finishing if you want to call it that. I mean, we do a lot of different things.

Nick: You’ve been installing for 17 years, what are some of the top mistakes you’ve seen made or maybe some DIYers would make?

Josh: floor prep is a big one. I mean, again… To me it always goes back to that. Undercutting jams… Not Knowing how to properly finish the floor as far as, like, on a hardwood installation puddy-ing nail holes correctly, Installing trim-work correctly, installing… Moldings or a big one. Transitions. Transitions our very difficult to install sometimes..

Nick: Transitions.. so one type of flooring goes into the next?

Josh: Correct.

Nick: Or maybe different levels?

Josh: Yep. Different levels of floor, different heights. What do you do here or there? Making transitions work that aren’t necessarily designed for the use that you need them to do.  Not nailing underlayment correctly Is another one I see. If you don’t have enough nails in your underlayment, overtime they could bubble up, almost like a trampoline type of fact. When you push down… Your flooring is glued or adhered to the underlayment but the underlayment is not adhere to the sub floor… Not caulking properly is another one. I mean, the sky is the limit. I’ve seen all kinds of stuff.

Nick: (Laughing) yeah.. One time there was like a hole, right? And someone took a soda can?

Josh: Oh yeah yeah.. i’ve seen soda cans nailed on top of holes in the floor. I mean, just anything you can imagine.

Nick: So something that would distinguish as Expert installers is, yeah the final product, but all that goes… All that hidden stuff that goes into floor preparation.

Josh: I would say… There is a flooring company where part of their name is flooring systems. So basically, they are saying that from their glue to the prep to the material is one system. And that’s what we’re trying to do. Everything in the system plays a part from top to bottom.

Nick: So in terms of percentage, how much time is spent on installation?

Josh: So percentage of time on installation I would say depends obviously on the type of flooring you’re doing. Sheet vinyl’s: it could be as little as 20% of actually installing sheet vinyl on a job, and the rest could be floor prep and installing trim-work. Hardwood: a little bit more, probably 40%. Same thing with carpet, but again, a lot of your time and hard surface goes into floor prep and a lot of the finishing stuff. 

Nick: You’re going into a customers home, and they are excited. They are getting their new floor, you know, put in that day or, you know, The next two days. Maybe what’s something customers should expect for like the day of installation or like maybe even before hand?

Josh: If we are moving furniture, we can do that. We typically ask if a customer can move some of the small items out, out of their furniture. Say if you have a China cabinet where you have a bunch of breakable things in there, we ask that you remove those. If, you know, in a residential house if we need access to water or power… If we can use those things, that we have access to them as well…  if we are grouting a floor or gluing a floor, pets should be put away where they’re not going to, you know, run through something you can track throughout the house.

Nick: When you’re installing, is that room typically off-limits?

Josh: Depending on what you’re doing, it can be. With grouting especially, you don’t want any traffic on that for 24 hours. Heavy rolling loads on vinyl floors, anything glued down. I mean, we can put fridges and stoves back. Once it’s installed, we roll them or carry them in on something to protect the floor. Foot traffic is normally is ok. Typically I say if I’m walking on the floor, you can. Showers and things of that nature, I’m not 100% sure on the timeline for that. I believe its 3 days after, 3 to 4 I think.

Nick: In terms of getting it wet?

Josh: Right. Exactly. If I’m installing vinyl in your bathroom and I caulk at your tub, you know, silicone caulk your tub. You can use your shower but just be mindful that caulk usually takes 24 hours to cure. 

Nick: So we’ll talk about repairs at this point. What are some of the most common repairs that you find yourself doing?

Josh: I would say, carpet: “Oh my dog tore a hole in something..” or “my cat”. You spill something on your carpet or burn it (with a) hot pan/candle. Hardwood would probably be like a scratched board or something you drop something on and put a ding in it. Same thing with vinyl plank. Sheet vinyl I see a lot of, “Oh! I moved my fridge out to clean it. And I… there’s a divot when I rolled it back.” 

Nick: As you’re going out to make these repairs, what are some of the easier flooring types to fix

Josh: Carpet is probably the easiest. That and sheet vinyl. Typically you can, you know, cut a square out or cut a tile in your vinyl pattern out and put another one in. Hardwood and like glue-down vinyl planks fairly easy. Engineered wood would be easier. Typically you’re cutting a board out and glueing another one in place. Solid wood is a little trickier than that. It’s a little harder to get that in. The two hardest would probably be a floating floor and ceramic tile. Floating floors are notoriously hard to fix because, you know, it’s a floating floor and you’re not adhering it to anything except the locking system. So typically, it can be… tricky. It’s very time-consuming because they don’t always want to go back together properly. You’re having to glue and this and that but not glue to the floor. 

Nick: So it’s possible but just maybe something customers can be aware of when they’re purchasing a floating floor. Hey, if this plank gets ruined it’s fixable but it’s going to take a little bit of time.

Josh: Right. Yeah. And I’m not saying it’s going to take days. It would just take an extra hour or two.

Nick: Any other general comments you would have?

Josh: I know all of our guys are passionate about what they do and are striving to do the best job that, you know, that we can for you. To me, if you’re not passionate about something, you’re not going to be good at it. I know for myself, I’m really passionate about flooring and I have been and I will be. I mean, I can’t see myself working in any other industry. When you’re shopping for a company to use is to keep that in mind because you do ultimately get what you pay for and that all goes into it. 

Nick: Thanks for sharing that Josh!

Josh: Yep, (I) appreciate it. 

Considering LVP?

5 Things You May Not Have Known

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1st Thing

Resilient Luxury Vinyl Plank or LVP and linoleum are two different products! Sheet vinyl often gets mistaken for linoleum and linoleum for sheet vinyl. The big difference between the two is their composition. Vinyl is an oil-based product while linoleum is plant-based (linseed oil, pine tar resin, wood flour, natural pigments, and jute for the backing). Go green! Another big difference is the style or look of vinyl. In terms of design versatility, linoleum is limited to a linear or marbled pattern whereas vinyl can mimic any type of flooring or design because its look is printed on the material by a machine.

2nd Thing

Your high quality LVPs today will come with a very strong wear layer made out of urethane that’s been cured using ultraviolet light. This process actually creates a chemical reaction that makes the urethane a very hard surface. Armstrong Flooring has come out with their Diamond Ten coating which actually has cultured diamonds in the urethane coating making it even stronger and resistant to wear over time. Other methods include adding silicone oxide or aluminum oxide to the UV urethane coating to increase longevity as well.

3rd Thing

To increase the dimensional stability of LVP, manufacturers have begun adding limestone to its composition. Armstrong Flooring has an LVP product line called rigid core, and US Floors has their Coretec line with limestone in their makeup. This type of LVP is perfect for a hunting cabin, for example, where the temperature can vary from 22 to 104 degrees. Despite the vast temperature change, this type of LVP is dimensionally stable which means it won’t expand or shrink.

4th Thing

LVP is 100% waterproof which means the flooring material itself won’t absorb water. Thanks to the engineering of LVP locking systems, water spilled (and dried up quickly) won’t reach your subfloor due to the maintained surface tension across the joints between pieces. To be clear, both glue-down and floating LVP, however, are not a 100% waterproof barrier to your subfloor. In the case of flooding, they will not protect what’s underneath from getting wet and absorbing water.

5th Thing

LVP is a super low maintenance product. It doesn’t require re-sealing, refinishing, or an expensive vacuum cleaner to keep it looking amazing. It’s total life span is shorter than a solid hardwood floor, but during the 30+ years of your LVP, the daily regimen will mostly just include dry sweeping up the dirt and grit followed by a swiffer cleaning using a hard surface cleaning solution.

How to Choose the Right Floor for You | 5 Questions to Ask

A new floor can be a big investment, and with so many options, how can you be sure you’re getting the right floor for you? Here are some questions we recommend you ask to get you headed in the right direction.

1. What is my budget?

This question should be your first question when venturing into any renovation project for your home or business. Prices for flooring material vary from less than $1/square foot to $15/square foot, and that can add up quick. Here is the general price range for resilient vinyl (sheet, LVP, LVT, and VCT), carpet, tile (ceramic & porcelain), natural stone, and hardwood (engineered and solid).

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Depending on the amount you’re looking to spend on your new floor, this price range can give you an idea of what works for you, so start there. And to help our customers with the cost, we offer free financing for 6 and 12 months.

2. Who should I trust to install my floor?

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Depending on the nature and scale of the job as well as the quality of the finished product you’re looking for, you’ll need to decide between a highly skilled professional, shopping at a big box store, or calling your brother-in-law to borrow his tools! 🙂 In most cases, you get what you pay for. You might save some money with DIY-ing it or shopping at a chain store, but are you getting an expert installer? Quality professionals take great pains to ensure straight edges, smooth transitions, properly installed cove base, and provide patches and puddy work that looks sharp. If these things matter to you, you’ll want to make sure your installer is qualified and willing to stand behind his work, even if that installer is you.

In addition to material warranties supplied by our manufacturers, we offer a 1 year service warranty, guaranteeing all of our labor. If your flooring fails because of poor installation on our part, we will take care of that.

3. Where will my new floor be installed and how will it be used?

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There is flooring for all kinds of applications. From commercial to residential, interior to exterior, to floors, walls, and backsplashes, the options are seemingly endless. Remember the 70’s when people installed carpet on their walls? You get the idea. Make the best selection by understanding the benefits and drawbacks of each type for your application.

Take residential kitchens, for example. You’ll want a durable floor that is able to withstand high traffic and is waterproof. Stone and tile would be your top choices. Hardwood, especially engineered hardwoods are a popular choice found in many kitchens today while other recommended options include linoleum, cork, and vinyl for their durability, water-resistance, and sound deadening qualities.

Do you have pets and kids? Opt for a stain-resistant and durable flooring type like stone, tile, hardwood, or vinyl. There are also high quality nylon carpets on the market with stain-resistant treatments that hold up well with proper maintenance. Speaking of carpet, did you know that berber (loop pile) tends to stand up better against traffic over time than a cut pile (plush) carpet? Do you have an outdoor space you’d like to beautify with flooring? Natural stone, porcelain tile, ceramic quarry tile, and exterior carpet are great options. Read about each of these options in our 8 Outdoor Flooring Options article.

Knowing the material, their strengths and limitations, is critical to making the best decision for flooring in a particular space. Our sales team loves walking customers through all these options to help them make the best decision for their needs.

4. What look do I want?

After you’ve narrowed your flooring selection based on price and utility, it’s time to have some fun with style. What do you want your room to look like? Thanks to modern printing techniques, realistic (not cheesy) natural stone and hardwood looks are available in ceramic, porcelain, vinyl, and laminate materials. Varied colors and patterns can also be found in these products, styles that are in step with current trends but subtle enough to endure the world's ever-changing interior design preferences. There’s a myriad of options in neutral tones of beige or gray. Certain colors and looks have the added benefit of hiding dirt. Carpet offers tons of colors and patterns as well. Additionally, you get to choose the finish of your hardwood, stone, or tile, making a selection between high gloss or matte finish as well as a rough feel created by various preparation and finishing methods. Overwhelmed yet?

Here are some more options to consider. With hardwood, tile, or lvp, instead of installing along the longest wall, you can lay it out on a 45 degree angle. Fancy! A herringbone pattern is a popular style with a lot of visual appeal. Have you ever heard of parisian chevron? You can also install in a pattern of squares or even frame your room with a border. Carpet tiles offer the option of getting creative with where you place your accent color should you choose one. Get creative. Have fun!

5. How much cleaning and maintenance am I willing to put into it?

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Maintenance.

Unfortunately, there is no super floor out there that is completely damage resistant. In fact, the more expensive natural stone and solid hardwood flooring still need regular care to keep looking amazing. Natural stone should be resealed every 1 to 3 years to prevent staining. Hardwood floors typically need to be refinished every 7 to 10 years. With natural stone, hardwood, and quality tiles, you’ll go longer between new installations, but regular maintenance is a must.

Carpet is amazing and just so soft, but it needs a lot of TLC (not the music group). To remain stain-resistant and clean, carpet is recommended to be professionally cleaned every 12 to 18 months. But let’s be real - who does that? If effectively cleaned, however, carpet can actually trap allergen and microbial particles, making them less available to become airborne, thus improving indoor air quality.

Resilient vinyl and laminate boast the least rigorous maintenance program. Daily dust-mopping to remove loose dirt and debris to avoid scratches, cleaning up spills immediately, and using some quality hard surface cleaner like Shaw’s R2X solution pretty much takes care of your floor.

For more maintenance tips for indoor floors or maintenance tips for outdoor floors, check out our other articles.

8 Outdoor Flooring Options

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When warm weather beckons you outside, these flooring choices for exterior spaces will make for a beautiful and enduring setting.

Enhance your outdoor living space by installing a beautiful new floor using natural stone, man-made tile, or even carpet! Read the following recommendations from us here at D&S Flooring for some inspiration and drop us a line if you want some professional direction and/or installation in creating an even more welcoming exterior space for your home or business.

While some of these exterior flooring options can be installed directly on the ground, at D&S we specialize in installing on concrete and wooden subfloors. Here are our 8 recommendations:

Natural Stone

1. GRANITE

Part of the natural stone family, granite is the hardest and least porous of all the natural stones. Granite is an igneous rock which means it was formed from lava. Tell that to your guests next time they compliment you on your floor! Granite is rough cut from quarries into blocks or slabs of specific length, width, and thickness and then finished for its final presentation. Because granite is hard enough to resist abrasion, strong enough to bear significant weight, inert enough to resist weathering, and accepts a brilliant polish, its use dates as far back as ancient Egypt and is a prevalent building material today with many applications. It also holds up well in cold temperatures and adverse weather conditions, definitely suitable for the northeastern part of the United States where we are. Granite is available in beautiful color variations from white to black.

Finishing options for granite include polishing, honing, flaming, as well as a leather/brushed application. A polished finish is high-gloss and reflective. Once polished, an added benefit is that granite is more resistant to stains. A honed finish is similar to a polished finish but presents a matte appearance. This finish is achieved simply by stopping at an earlier stage in the polishing process. A honed finish is recommended for flooring because of its ability to better hide foot traffic and the evidence of wear as well as reduce the risk of slipping. A flamed finish is achieved when extremely high temperatures (often supplied by a blowtorch) are introduced to the surface of the granite, causing the individual grains to burst and change color. The result is a rougher and more natural look. A leathered finish is similar to honed in that is presents a matte look without the reflective element of a polished finish. Unlike a honed finish, however, a leathered finish leaves pits and fissures on the surface giving a slightly bumpy texture. The latter two finishes mentioned are recommended for outdoor flooring as a rougher surface makes your granite flooring more slip-resistant. Additionally, a penetrating sealer is recommended to prevent water damage, caused by freezing and thawing.

We sell granite products for outdoor flooring installation from the following companies: American Olean, Chesapeake Flooring, Daltile, and Interceramic USA.

For even more about finishes, check out this page.

2. MARBLE

Marble is the second hardest natural stone and slightly more porous than granite. Marble is a metamorphic rock which means it was once a caterpillar. Just kidding. Marble is a limestone that underwent high pressure and heat, and because of its formation process, marble is durable and resilient. It’s still porous, so it needs to be sealed to prevent degradation. Marble is available in many color variations from white to black with beautiful veining.

Finishing options for marble, which are similar to granite, include rough and polished finishes as well. In the polished category are polished, honed, or a combination of the two. In the rough category are ‘tumbled’ and leather/brushed edge finishes. These finishes present a more rustic or worn look. As far as the tumbled finish, the process consists of placing the marble tiles into a rubber drum that also includes things like rocks, sand, and water. The stone surfaces are bumpy when completed. Again for outdoor flooring, the tumbled or leather/brushed finish would be recommended to decrease the risk of slipping.

We sell marble products for outdoor flooring installation from the following companies: American Olean, Chesapeake Flooring, Daltile, Interceramic USA, Marazzi USA, and Shaw Floors.

3. SLATE

Slate is another viable outdoor flooring option, famous for its durability and waterproof characteristics. We’re very familiar with slate being used as a roofing material. Like marble, slate is also formed through the metamorphic process but has a structure which enables it to be ‘cut’ or split along its foliation lines into smooth flat sheets. Its strong color variations create a lot of texture and visual interest.  No two tiles are ever alike which is great for creativity though presents a challenge matching if a replacement is needed in the future. As such, it’s a great choice when you want contrast in your outdoor patio. Colors ranges are gray, green, orange, brown and tan.

Finishing options for slate include natural cleft (manually split at the quarry), tumbled, polished, and honed.

We sell slate products for outdoor flooring installation from the following companies: American Olean, Daltile, and Shaw Floors.

4. TRAVERTINE

Travertine is a limestone produced from the the interaction with chemicals over time. It’s a very porous material and must be sealed to prevent staining and water penetration. Travertine is available in rich colors from white to deep brown.

Finishing options for travertine include tumbled and polished finishes.

We sell travertine products for outdoor flooring installation from the following companies: American Olean, Chesapeake Flooring, Daltile, Florida Tile, Interceramic USA and Shaw Floors.

5. LIMESTONE

Limestone is a beautiful stone with a rich, light-colored appearance. It’s a sedimentary rock formed mostly in warm shallow waters from the remains of skeletal organisms such as coral. Being readily available and easily cut into block, it’s a popular building material.

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In case you were wondering what the Giza Pyramids in Egypt were made out of, now you know they were built using limestone. Needless to say, limestone holds up very well against the elements over time making it an excellent option for outdoor flooring. If the great pyramid ruins still stand today, you can confidently install some limestone flooring over your backyard patio. Limestone is very porous, however, with visible pits in the stone, so it must be sealed for stain protection as well as freezing and thawing in cold weather climates. Limestone is available in colors from white to brown.

Finishing options for limestone include tumbled and polished.

We sell limestone products for outdoor flooring installation from the following companies: American Olean, Chesapeake Flooring, Conestoga Tile, and Marazzi USA.

 

Man-Made Tile

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A clip from Florida Tile's porcelain tile printing process.

6. PORCELAIN

Porcelain is a ceramic material created from clay heated in a kiln to between 2,200 and 2,600 °F. During the process, materials in the clay vitrify, which means they turn into a liquid/glass, making them impermeable to water even before glazing (melting a thin glass layer onto the tile). As an impregnable surface, porcelain tiles are excellent options for outdoor use. Further strengthening this feature through the process of glazing increases porcelain’s resistance to water and breakdown caused by freezing and thawing. Additionally, porcelain boasts a high break strength or PEI rating which means it is stiletto-heel resistant.

As a man-made tile, porcelain comes in many styles from stone to wood to patterned looks thanks to innovative modern digital printing techniques.

We recommend installing porcelain tiles with a textured finish outdoors to reduce the risk of slipping.

See below for our list of porcelain tile manufacturers/distributors.

7. Quarry Tile

While most ceramic tile is not suitable for outdoors due to its permeability, lack of resistance to frost, and lower breaking strength, ceramic ‘quarry tile’ is a viable outdoor option where freezing temperatures and severe weather conditions are a factor. Quarry tile is fired at temperatures over 2,000 °F making its surface mostly impregnable. The main difference between porcelain and quarry tile is quarry tiles have an unglazed surface.  Quarry tiles come in red, brown, gray, or tan colors and can have a smooth or rough finish.

See below for a list of quarry tile manufacturers/distributors.

PORCELAIN + QUARRY TILE MANUFACTURERS & DISTRIBUTORS

  • American Olean - Porcelain, Quarry Tile

  • Chesapeake Flooring - Porcelain

  • Conestoga Tile - Porcelain, Quarry Tile

  • Crossville - Porcelain

  • Daltile - Porcelain, Quarry Tile

  • Florida Tile - Porcelain, Quarry Tile

  • Garden State Tile - Porcelain

  • Interceramic USA - Porcelain

  • Marazzi USA - Porcelain

  • Marca Corona - Porcelain

Man-Made… Carpet!

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8. CARPET

Don’t forget about outdoor carpet! Shaw Floors, one of our major flooring suppliers, carries a line of needlebond and tufted indoor/outdoor carpet perfect for adding a soft touch to your outdoor experience. Made out of 100% UV polypropylene, these products are crafted to resist weathering and mold when kept clean and dry. Carpet offers sound absorption and aesthetic value in high profile areas of pools, patios, porches, sunrooms, playrooms, basements, walkways, and even miniature golfing fairways.

Carpet options for installation outdoors include artificial turf, tufted berber, and needlebond (needle punched) carpet. These come in wide variety of colors and color blends perfect for hiding dirt.

7 Outdoor Flooring Maintenance Tips

how to clean, maintain, and protect your natural stone flooring

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NATURAL STONE

A cool fact about natural stone from the DalTile Website:

Natural stone has its own unique qualities that not only distinguish it from man-made materials, but also should be considered in selecting it for a particular project. Stone is not manufactured; it is a product of nature. Blocks are removed from the quarry, slabs are cut from these blocks, and the slabs are further fabricated into the final stone to be installed. Each block is different; each slab is different. Skillful blending or matching of the dimension stone blocks, veneer panels, tops, etc., results in a beautiful blending of nature’s variety and man’s design. “Uniformity of material,” when applied to natural stone, is a term of relative value that needs to be understood when making a selection.
— DalTile

 

Follow these tips to keep your slate, marble, travertine, onyx, and limestone in the best shape.

  1. Know Your Stone. Travertine stone for example, has voids in it due to the way it forms in nature. Certain white marbles if exposed to direct sunlight will yellow over time, and natural stone in general has a different cleaning regimen than man-made ceramic. Therefore, know your product so you can keep it looking and functioning at its best.
  2. Seal and Regularly Reseal Your Stone. Natural stone is more porous by nature compared to man-made ceramic tile. Properly sealing the stone with a high quality sealer is crucial to stain prevention. You’ll know it’s time to reseal your stone when water fails to bead on the surface but instead disappears into the stone and leaves a dark spot.
  3. Vacuum or Dust Mop Regularly. Dirt and grit can scratch the surface of natural stone. So remove it via vacuuming or dust mopping before applying the cleaning solution with a mop.
  4. Don’t Use Acids or Bleach to Clean. Introducing even mild acids to the natural stone can dull, etch, or otherwise damage your stone, so avoid using cleaners with vinegar, lemon juice, or bleach. Use a neutral pH cleaner designed for stone. (See recommendations below)
  5. Clean Up Water and Spills Right Away. Dry up any standing water from your stone flooring. Make sure your sprinkler isn’t also watering your floor as it waters your lawn. Always get after stain-causing spills as soon as you can. The longer a stain has to set in the stone, the more difficult to even impossible it will be to get out.
    1. Installation Note: Allow your newly installed tile to sit for 7 days before aggressive use or steam cleaning.
  6. Stain Removal is Possible. Using what’s called a ‘poultice’, an absorptive clay cleaning powder,  apply it for stain removal. There are different types of poultices depending on the type of stain. These can have a dulling effect on your stone.  You might need to polish your stone after using a poultice to restore your stone's natural shine.
  7. Buy Enough of the Product on the Front End. If part of your floor gets damaged and needs to be replaced, make sure you have enough of the stone to replace and match the original floor in the first place. Because you’re using a product created by natural processes, even the same type of stone harvested from the same quarry can look very different.

For more tips, consult your flooring salesman as you’re selecting flooring options as well as manufacturer product information.

 

Some Recommended Sealing Products:

  • Pre-Grout Sealer: DuPont Stone Tech Professional Bullet Proof (follow manufacturer instructions for application process)DuPont Stone Tech Professional Heavy Duty Sealer (follow manufacturer instructions for application process)

  • Aqua Mix Ultra-Solv (follow manufacturer instructions for application process)

  • Post-Grout Sealer: DuPont Stone Tech Professional Impregnator Pro (follow manufacturer instructions for application process)

  • Post-Grout Sealer: Aqua Mix Sealers Choice Gold (follow manufacturer instructions for application process)

Some Recommended Cleaning Products

  • DuPont™ StoneTech® Professional Stone & Tile Cleaner

7 Indoor Flooring Maintenance Tips | Care for Your Floor

Clean, Maintain, and Protect your Hardwood, Tile, Resilient Vinyl, and Carpet Flooring

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HARDWOOD

Whether engineered or solid, these insights will help you keep your hardwood floor in good shape.

  1. Sweep, dust and vacuum your floors. If using a vacuum, attach the proper hard floor adapter to avoid scratching the finish of your wood.

  2. Use the right cloth. Microfiber is best. It kind of goes without saying, but especially avoid steel wool, scouring powders, or abrasive cleaners. Also avoid using a buffing machine. You know, the ones designed to remove floor finishes...

  3. Use the right cleaner. Choosing the proper cleaning solution depends on the finish of your hardwood (surface finish or penetrating finish), not so much the wood itself. Using oil-based, wax, polish or strong ammoniated products can dull your floor’s finish, and that would not be cool. We carry Shaw Floor's hard surface cleaner in our showroom. (You may have noticed Josh demonstrating it.)

  4. Wipe up spilled water immediately. Dry any standing water as soon as possible. Even surface finished hardwood can suffer water damage.

  5. Don’t mop (in the traditional sense where you're soaking your floors with lots of water). Mopping your hardwood floor introduces way more water than you’d ever want to spill onto your floor by accident. This excess water could seep into the wood fibers and cause swelling and warping, and that would be sad 😢

  6. Use entry mats and floor protectors. Implementing the use of entry mats in high traffic areas and floor protectors underneath heavy furniture can increase the lifespan of your floor. Ask us for some felt floor protectors, and we'll hook you up.

  7. Rearrange Your Furniture Periodically. Let your flooring share the load as evenly as possible by redirecting high traffic each time you move your furniture around.

    1. BONUS. So here’s another cool tip: If you drop gum or candle wax onto your floor, you can remove it by first hardening it by rubbing it with an ice cube and then scraping it off with a plastic card.

TILE

Keeping your ceramic, porcelain, or natural stone tile at its best.

  1. Sweep or vacuum first. Before using any cleaning solutions on your tile, remove dirt and debris with a soft-bristled broom or vacuum with a hard surface attachment to avoid putting scratches in your glazed tile.

  2. Glazed tile cleaning. Mmmm… glazed. After sweeping or vacuuming, clean your tile with an all-purpose (non-oil-based) household cleaner. Mixing some water with a mild detergent also works. If you’re feeling creative, you could introduce an acidic ingredient like fresh lemon juice to your cleaning solution, effective for removing soap scum and alkaline type stains. Don't add an acidic solution to your cleaner if you're cleaning marble or other natural stone flooring. The pH balance in your cleaning solution needs to be neutral or it will break down your material. Read more about caring for your natural stone flooring in this article.

  3. Unglazed tile cleaning. Unglazed ceramic or porcelain (man-made) tile lacks the melted glass coating of its glazed counterpart. It’s a lot less slippery when wet but more porous which means you need to be more gentle when cleaning it. Hot water and white vinegar mixture is recommended. The vinegar mixture is great especially if you have kids and pets since it’s chemical-free and safe if ingested.

  4. Cotton, microfiber, or chamois-style cloths. Avoid using sponges or sponge mops as they tend to push dirt and grime into cracks and grout joints.

  5. Grout Joint Cleaning Tip. Mix baking soda and water together, forming a paste, and rub it onto your dirty grout joints. After letting it sit overnight, scrub the grout with a stiff nylon brush. Repeating this step to get your desired results may be necessary.

  6. Reseal your floors. If you want your tile installation to keep looking good and remain mostly impervious to stains, seal them after installation then reseal them every year to 2 years. If water doesn’t bead on the grout lines, it’s probably time for the resealing regimen.

  7. Protection. Tile is strong, but it still suffers wear and tear. the use of mats in high traffic areas and floor protectors underneath furniture is recommended.

RESILIENT VINYL

Follow these tips to keep your resilient vinyl flooring (Sheet/LVP/LVT) in tip top shape.

  1. Immediately following installation. Keep foot traffic to a minimum. And for glue down vinyl, avoid putting furniture on the floor until after the first 24 hours.

  2. Clean Daily. (Or at least make that your aim) Clear your floor of potentially damaging dirt and grit by dust mopping or sweeping every day. Having good entry mats can cut down on the amount of dirt and oil tracked inside from the great outdoors.

  3. Clean spills immediately. Vinyl is waterproof but leaving a spill standing on your floor for a long period of time increases the chance of staining.

  4. Protection. Hopefully you get this by now. Protective mats (without rubber or latex backing) at high traffic areas and pivot joints (like in front of your kitchen sink) can increase the longevity of your floors and prevent visible wear spots. Floor protectors (plastic or felt) that are non-pigmented and at least an inch wide are recommended.

  5. Avoid direct sunlight. This is a tip for all flooring and furniture, really. Lower the blinds during bright times of the day to minimize direct sunlight on your floors. Over time, it can cause discoloration. Excessive temperatures can also cause expansion of the vinyl material. While some companies are coming out with dimensionally stable options, it's still a good tip!

  6. Do not use vinegar or soap or detergents. Soaps and detergents can leave a dulling effect on your floor's finish. Use an approved resilient vinyl cleaning solution like Shaw Flooring’s R2X Hard Surface cleaner or Mannington Flooring’s Rinse-Free Cleaner.

  7. Do not use a vacuum with a rotating beater bar. It could scratch your beautiful floor, and again, that would be so sad.

CARPET

Whether cut pile, loop, or the cut and loop carpet combo, follow these maintenance and cleaning care tips for your maximum carpet satisfaction.

  1. Install the Right Pad. During installation, get it right from the beginning with the proper carpet padding, especially on stairs. Check the carpet's warranty recommendations and explore your carpet pad options.

  2. Don't Track Dirt Inside. This is so obvious it's almost funny. But seriously, make your life easier and make your carpet's life longer by having good walk-off mats to keep the dirt, grit, soil, and asphalt outside and off your carpet.

  3. Vacuum Regularly. This is stated by one of our main supplier's as the most important maintenance tip. In light of this and the myriad of vacuum cleaner options on the market, we've included a link below to help you make an educated vacuum cleaner decision! We recommend that you then use that educatedly purchased vacuum cleaner to clean your carpets thoroughly, especially in high traffic areas.

  4. Treat the Affected Area Immediately. The sooner you can get at it, the better. The longer spilled foods or liquid stands on your carpet, the more likely they are to leave a stain.

  5. Clean Your Carpets Regularly. Using a hot water extraction method, clean your carpets every 12 to 18 months. It's recommended to hire a professional cleaning service and one that follows the Carpet and Rug Institute Seal of Approval. A poorly cleaned rug can actually increase the rate at which your carpet breaks down. So make sure you don't cut corners here.

  6. Minor Repairs. Use scissors to cut back snags or loose piles. If the there are small burn spots on the carpet, you can use a pair of curved nail scissors to cut back the burnt tips.

  7. Spot Cleaning. When spot cleaning, completely remove the detergent or solution used to avoid any residual sticky residue that just attracts more dirt. Derry, our owner, would highly recommend using Shaw Flooring's R2X Stain & Soil Remover, which doesn't need to be rinsed out. Bonus!

Here are some links to super helpful resources by two of our main carpet suppliers:

Shaw Flooring's Website of All Things Cleaning and Maintenance

Vacuum Recommendations: Mohawk's

UPRIGHT MODEL